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The Butcher's Apron
butcher's apron
The Butcher's Apron: New and Selected Poems
Diane Wakoski
Black Sparrow Press
250 pp.

Available from Powell's Books.


Diane Wakoski's ambitious new book is odd, if I can say that without any trace of pejorative. The poems in The Butcher's Apron aren't culled from any single time period, as the author wanted to avoid discounting her widely-read Emerald Ice, an earlier collection. As a book of selected poems it's odd as well, because it has a theme: food, and even more particularly, food as still life. No one but an extraordinarily prolific poet could accomplish such a thing. Wakoski has published 40 books, half of them substantial volumes of poetry. Part of this book's oddness, for me, resides in the author's polished, low-key surrealism; Wakoski's work reminds me of Wallace Stevens' colors and juxtapositions, but it requires careful reading not to be put off by the "jumps" in image and subject.

I can't quite find words for Wakoski's final oddness. It is, I guess, the assertiveness of someone who has been doing exactly what she wants for a great many years, without having to be accountable to anyone but herself. (Now in her mid-sixties, Wakoski has been churning out poetry for more than forty years; she's also one of the rare writers who makes her living entirely from her poetry). For example, the first and title poem of the book, "The Butcher's Apron", begins with this unusual epigraph:

"When I was a child, we lived in the midst of orange groves on Russell Street in Whittier, California, just up the road from the Nixon family grocery store, where I bought my popsicles from old Mr. and Mrs. Nixon, father and mother of the late president. When they expanded, adding a much bigger butcher's counter and a coffee shop, their son Don Nixon, later featured in real estate scandals, became the butcher."

The poem that follows, which runs some 60 lines, leaps from the bloodstained apron, to cooking in "our manless house", to her school cafeteria, to her mother's dirt-floor childhood, to Sylvia Plath and Andy Warhol. It then brings them together in three brief, final lines: "...Crimson blood on canvas, the art/of childhood. Unhealed scars,/still capable of bleeding."

One of Wakoski's best known poems, which I believe is also the only one of her poems to have been reprinted in Best American Poetry, is "Ode to a Lebanese Crock of Olives". It is an exuberant poem -- at least three people have made me sit down over the years so they could read it aloud to me. It has the same sensual focus as the opening of a recent movie, Tortilla Soup, in which hands chop, strip, braise, ladle and sprinkle a rainbow of ingredients into one splendid, steaming dish. Wakoski does the same, but as a poet, she stirs in lean surfers, hummingbirds and Reubens. Determined to do exactly what she pleases, she creates some of the oddest line breaks I've ever encountered ("These are words to say thank you/to/Walter's Aunt Libby"), and somehow makes them work in the service of the poem.

The next-to-last stanza of the piece immerses the reader in detail:

Beauty is everywhere,
in contrasts and unities.
But to you, I could not offer the thin tan fashionable body
of a California beach girl.
Instead, I could give the richness of burgundy,
dark brown gravies,
gleaming onions,
the gold of lemons,
and some of Walter's Aunt Libby's wonderful olives from Lebanon.

Despite her surrealism, Wakoski never writes as that most loathsome of American creatures, the Academic Poet, and can speak with a disarming directness, as in these lovely, plainspoken lines from a poem with a fairly off-putting title, "Image Is Narrative": "The tricks in life/are that nothing is hidden, only obscured/by desire, which makes us long/for what we do not have."

In an essay, Wakoski has written that "Poetry is the art of saying what you mean but disguising it," as in, perhaps, these lines from "A Dangerous Hermit", dedicated to the "Motorcycle Betrayer".

She's not crazy, just doesn't like
to explain herself. She eats pecans
fresh little ears in their paper boat shells
and thinks of how
those shells are as smooth as
a certain hand.

Wakoski's dictum has annoyed me for days, and I've reflected on the statement while reading The Butcher's Apron; it's even forced me to reread some of my own poems in the light of her assertion. (Am I trying to disguise anything? I hope not.) I've clanged it against my wife's definition of poetry, my touchstone for years: "Poets feel what we feel, and say what we can't." But I'm dreadfully afraid Wakoski might be right, as her poetry evinces a rare determination, succeeding beautifully in saying exactly what she means.

-- Bill Noble is a poet and fiction writer in Marin County, California. His joint manuscript with poets William Keener and Michael Day, Three Crows Yelling, won the 1999 National Looking Glass Award. He is fiction editor at the online magazine Clean Sheets.

· · · · · · ·

About the Publisher: Black Sparrow Press

"Since the mid-60s, a single small press in California has made a profitable and growing business -- without advertising, without relying on grants, without leverage, and without press coverage -- by publishing precisely what it wants. And what it wants to publish is the original, the counter-cultural, the avant-garde, and the overlooked. Black Sparrow Press was launched in 1966 by a Southern California businessman, John Martin, to publish the work of the then little-known (though highly respected) poet Charles Bukowski. It has continued over the past 30 plus years -- growing steadily -- to publish American poetry and fiction that, whether one cares for it or not, can only be described as determinedly noncommercial. And from this mix has risen some of the finest avant-garde and experimental work of the 20th century." -- Neil Gordon, Boston Review

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